Chris & Desi come to visit

After spending July and August back in the UK, we flew back to Greece in September and Serenity was put back in the water from the boatyard. A couple of days on Preveza quay to get her ready and then Chris and Desi arrive to join us. 

As none of us had ventured far into the Gulf of Amvrikikos behind Preveza we decided to go exploring. So pleased that we did - what an amazing area - an inland sea surrounded by magnificent mountains and lots of wild life.

First stop was the anchorage near Vonista

Beautiful anchorage to the right of the picture behind this causeway which joins the chapel on the island to the mainland. A short walk from here took us into the town of Vonitsa.

 Looking at the forecast, we decided to move into the small harbour the next day - glad we did when we saw this weather coming in!

A walk from the harbour, through the woods took us past this lovely old chapel and back into town. 

A day in Vonitsa to shop - wonderful old wood fired oven bakery, butchers and supermarket. A man came along to the boat selling fruit and veg from his car - so fresh and so cheap! Peaches, tomatoes, grapes, nectarines, oranges for 8€

Chris and Desi on the lookout for dolphins..........

........and there is one!

On a different day, as we crossed the gulf from south to north we met a pod of about 20 dolphins. Seven of them came to join us, as we were sailing at about 6.5 knots and no motor, they played around the bow of the boat for about 15 minutes - racing round behind us and zooming past, diving under the bows and rolling on their sides so they could look up at us. Such a magical experience - they don't normally stay for so long and I didn't want to miss watching them to go and fetch the camera so no photos but wonderful memories!

On the subject of wildlife we also saw a lot of turtles, three stingrays, lots of egrets and a small flock of pelicans - sorry no photos!

From Vonitsa we sailed along the south shore of the gulf and came to this idyllic bay where we anchored with only three other boats. The whole area was so quiet compared to the islands of the Ionian further south. This picture is taken from the small, family run taverna - the only building in the bay - where we had the most delicious prawn saganaki. The gulf is famous for the huge prawns that they catch here.

From that bay to another bay travelling east where we were the only boat there and nothing ashore. It really is 360 degree scenery but difficult to capture on a photo.

Happy sailors!

We left that anchorage and sailed across the gulf to the small town of Menidhion in the north east corner.

This is the view from the shore looking out at Serenity - again the only boat anchored there.

The bright lights of Menidhion!

In the evening the fishermen go out in small boats and lay nets around the bay to catch the prawns, which they collect in the morning.

In the morning our brave, hunter gatherers went to buy prawns off the fishermen as they came in - they don't come much fresher than that!

That evening Desi made us an amazing prawn saganaki - prawns in tomato sauce with onion and red peppers, ouzo and feta cheese crumbled on top - wonderful!

Now heading west along the north shore, an overnight anchorage and stunning sunset.

Desi is sent up to the bows to look out for rocks as we want to anchor off the rocky islands. She had lots of practice of guiding the boat through coral reefs when they were in the Pacific islands!

Calm waters

A trip back across to Vonitsa for supplies. Large castle on the hill behind the harbour but not open when we were there. Dave and I had visited it when we were last here about ten years ago.

Choppy waters in our last anchorage. We had intended to stop again before going back into Preveza but the local fisherman here told us the bad weather was coming in sooner than our forecast was predicting - always wise to go with local knowledge!

We were anchored just outside this harbour at Koronisia, the charts had said that it wasn't deep enough for us to go into but having spoken to people in there it seems it may be. Later,  Dave and Chris went off in the dinghy with a lead line to check out the depths and it would be deep enough ......just!

These are the small, low fishing boats they go out in in all weathers.

At the top of the village was this beautiful church that had been restored fairly recently

Views around the village


The old bell outside the church and.....

......a colourful entrance.

The tiny chapel by the harbour.

The view from the church looking north over the water meadows of the national park. Apparently there are water buffalo and flamingoes living here but you would have to go trekking to see them.

Walking back down to the harbour with Serenity in the distance.

On the way down we saw this tree laden with fruit and the owner insisted we should have some. The ripe fruit is bright orange and we discovered they were persimmon fruit - very nice and sweet with some Greek yoghurt!

Dave really knows how to look after our guests on board!

An extra guest for dinner!

Walking around the town of Preveza we came across these trees on the Main Street - I have absolutely no idea what they are - any suggestions?

Pete's Visit & John's Visit

After David left we had a few days in Preveza to do laundry, restock and refuel the boat ready for Pete joining us.

Strange cloud formation whilst we were waiting on Preveza quay.

Pete arrives and we head south, through the Lefkada bridge and anchor with lines ashore in Abelike bay on the north coast of Meganisi

Out for a sail and back into Spartahori, just along the coast

Sitting in the taverna on the water's edge, the sea gets a little too close! Waves created by large motor yacht going across the head of the bay. The waiter very thoughtfully went around lifting handbags etc left on the floor. The water soon receded and service resumed as normal.

Good meal at Stefan and Gerry's.

Strange sunset looking out of Spartahori bay towards Lefkada. Why is the orange sunset only in that arc?

From Spartahori, after a walk up to the village at the top, we headed across to the island of Kalamos. This is a beautiful anchorage at Port Leone, along from George's place in the main town (seen in previous post).

Port Leone used to be the main port of the island until the earthquake of 1953 destroyed the water supply. The inhabitants left and chose not to return, leaving the place like a ghost village. The church remains and is maintained by locals from Kalamos town but other buildings, including an olive press have fallen into disrepair. We did notice this year that work has begun to restore some of the buildings, no doubt soon to open as tavernas and create a tourist spot.

Time for a cuppa in the anchorage surrounded by magnificent mountains.

Calm waters as we left Port Leone the next morning. This is the channel between the island of Kalamos on the left and Kastos island on the right.

Moving on we headed west, a brief stop in One House Bay on Atoko island and onto anchor in Vathi on Ithaca.

A wedding party boat heading out to the small chapel on the island in the bay (see previous post)

Pete surveying the scene.

We had planned to go to Kioni next but strong winds would have made the quay there very uncomfortable and not secure holding. The winds blow down the valley and into the bay so we decided to stay in Vathi for another night.

Now heading north on our way back to Preveza, we called in to Kioni bay but unfortunately didn't have time to stop - just wanted to show Pete this jewel.

A lunchtime stop and swim in the beautiful clear water between the tiny island of Thilia and Meganisi.

Overnight anchorage in One Tree Bay - indicated by the arrow - although actually there are two trees - maybe needs renaming! A new spot for us - even after all this time in the Ionian we can still find new places to discover.

The next morning we left the anchorage and sailed north, back through the Lefkada bridge and into Preveza. There we met John who had flown in the previous evening and stayed overnight in a hotel. We all went for a late lunch at our favourite restaurant in town - still have all the freebies and bill comes to 39€ for four of us! Pete left by taxi to the airport, quick change of bedding and John moves on board.

The next morning we sailed south again and stopped off in One(?) Tree Bay for overnight anchorage. Next morning on to Spartahori - nice to swim off the boat as it was now 39 degrees. Breakfast up in the village and then round to Abelike having had a look at Kapeli and decided Abelike was a better option. 

John soaking up the rays!

From Abelike we sailed along the coast and round to the spot between Meganisi and Thilia for lunchtime swim - not a good spot for anchoring overnight but wonderful for cooling swim.

In need of supplies we went into Tranquil bay and dropped anchor. However, the bay didn't really live up to its name and a fair amount of wind came in. Dave stayed on board and John and I took the dinghy across to Nidri to go shopping.

We then had quite a "spirited" sail over to One Tree Bay but weather dictated that the bay to the east was calmer and a better option so we anchored there - Varko Bay - another new spot for us.

No sailing wind the next day so we took the dinghy ashore and went exploring up onto the headland and looked down the other side towards Plateria.

The walk back down into Varko bay.

Stunning Oleanders in the gardens of a deserted hotel, now nothing ashore other than a few quiet holiday apartments.

Strange but beautiful thistle like plants up on the headland.

Fantastic clear waters in a very tranquil bay - we are so, so lucky!!

From here it was back to Preveza to drop John off at the airport and then to get Serenity ready for going into the Ionian boatyard opposite Preveza town.

All sorted, Serenity up on the hard and skipper relaxes with a chilled beer!

David's Visit

As Harry flew out of Preveza David flew in.

From Preveza we headed back down south, through the Lefkada lifting bridge and to the island of Meganisi where our first stop was Abelike bay. 

A quick drink in the taverna in the bay before a walk up and over into Little Vathi.

Looking back down into Abelike bay and across to the majestic mountains on mainland Greece.

A colourful little fishing boat came around selling fish. Nice idea but we have been caught with this before when we were in Italy - it cost us a fortune and the fish, whatever they were, were not nice.

From Abelike we sailed over to the island of Kalamos where George still runs the quay - it is a few years since we were last here. He is great at directing you in, taking lines etc and then has the only taverna on the quay side. 

David and I had a walk up to the top of the village - walks always seem to involve going uphill - and then took a dubious looking path which we decided probably took us back to the quay - and it did!

Time for an ouzo on the water's edge at George's looking across to the island of Kastos.

From Kalamos we sailed towards big Vathi on the island of Ithaca, stopping off here in One House Bay (see what I mean about the Greek's imaginative names for bays?!) on the small island of Atoko.

Amazing "folded" rock formations on the cliff face.

After a short lunch stop at One House bay we continued on to Big Vathi and anchored in the bay there off the town quay. This view is looking back out of the bay, past the tiny island with a chapel on it and the huge tall ship that came in that night.

Walking around the town we saw this beautiful combination of bougainvillea, oleander and jacaranda (I think?)

Uh-oh! David checking out his next property project?

The seafront road where David's "project" was!

Leaving Vathi we followed the east coast of Ithaca, passing this typically very remote chapel on the coast..........

..........and into Kioni.

The weather is really warming up now so we walked around the bay for a swim off this little beach

A very noisy nestful of swallow chicks right behind where we were moored on the quay.

 How did they all fit in that nest?!

After much encouragement from both parents and possibly "auntie" who joined in, they made their first tentative flight and managed to land on next door's anchor chain.

All lined up - there is always one that has to face the wrong way for the photo! 

A similar photo to previous blog post, but added here as it shows the island of Atoko in the distance and you can just see the white cliffs of One House Bay.

After a day in Kioni, and a beer with Sam and Anna, we continued around the north coast of Ithaca and across to the port of Fiskardho on the island of Kephalonia.

This is another spot we haven't been to for several years. It seems that they have greatly reduced the space for yachts to moor and we had to anchor with long lines onto the rocks on the left hand side of the bay.It was actually a beautiful spot, away from the noise and bustle of the popular town.

But the ice cream is just as good as ever!

I couldn't resist buying Dave this teeshirt that David spotted in one of the shops along the seafront!

From Fiskardho we headed north to Sivota on the south coast of the island of Lefkada. Strange to be heading into fog - I have never seen that out here before but luckily it cleared as we got closer.

Captain and First Mate putting the world to rights over a cold Mythos!

After an overnight stop in Sivota we went into Vliho bay for Sunday roast and apple crumble at the Yacht Club........

.......and next stop was Spartahori on the north coast of Meganisi.

A steep climb up (again) to one of the best views in the Ionian and the best cold beer / fresh orange juice - much needed once you get to the top!

Dinner at Stephan and Gerry's right on the water's edge.

Back to Preveza and we hired a car to go to the archeological museum and also to the ancient site at Nekropolis. 

 This huge city wall could be seen stretching off into the distance.

Detail of one of the mosaic floors.

On the quay in Preveza, moored outside the town hall and the bank with a rather ornate balcony. We had dropped David off at the airport as we had the hire car and now we are waiting for Peter to arrive tonight.