Mazara del Vallo to Marina di Ragusa

We had hoped to stay in Mazara del Vallo for a few more days to wait for the westerly or northerly winds but, when we asked, we were told the berth was already booked so we had to leave. Therefore we had a fairly rough sail to Sciacca but were welcomed into the Lega Navale pontoon there.

I love this colourful way of creating shade in the narrow streets and small piazzas. 

A view of the steps with coloured tiles on the upstands 

Caught sunning himself on the castle walls. 

The narrow streets around Sciacca.

One of the beautiful ceilings in the house museum in the town centre.

The museum is housed in the Scaglione palace where the knight Francesco Scaglione lived. He enjoyed collecting a very diverse mix of objects and it was his daughters who,  honouring the will of their father, created the museum here.

One of the very bizarre collection of objects in the museum - love the expression on their faces!

Detail of tiny bootees, very elaborately decorated.

The view from the main square  with the marina in the bottom left hand corner.

Looking the other way across the square (Piazzo Scandaliato) to the very grand and elegant City Hall which occupies the site of a 17th century Jesuit College.

 The strange banyan trees along the square.

We walked up to the top of town and admired the view inland from the castle.

The fourteenth century Castello Luna built on solid rock at the top of town. Its perimeter walls form part of the defensive city wall.

Another view looking down from the square. Serenity is moored at the end of the Lega Navale pontoon (directly above the cross on the conical church roof).

Sciacca is not a tourist town and its main industry is still fishing. There are about 500 fishing boats based here.

The pizzeria at the end of the square where we stopped for lunch only to be told they don't serve pizzas at lunchtime?! I didn't notice the pigeon walking purposefully across the floor until I downloaded the photo!

Only a few of the streets in Sciacca are passable by vehicle (and they are debatable but not for Italian drivers who seem to be able to squeeze their cars anywhere!). This is the Gate of Palermo - one of the old entrances to the town, still with the original wooden gates.

A stop for a pre- lunch drink and we were served with enough free snacks with our spritz that we didn't actually need lunch!

The Cathedral was founded in the 12th century but now has an elegant 17th century facade which was never quite finished.

Just SOME of the steps you climb from the marina up to the town square! 

We left Sciacca intending to sail to Marina di Ragusa and arrive in the early hours of the morning. However, with gusts of up to 35knts and fairly big seas we decided to stop off in Licata for the night.

The next morning we went for a walk around the marina to see if there was anyone we knew from our winter there two years ago. We met Tony who we had last seen in Crete and also Juliet from our winter in Finike, Turkey. We had not been in touch  since then so it was good to catch up. As it was Sunday we decided to stay for the BBQ there and then set off at 14:00hrs

As we were leaving Licata we spotted dolphins - always a wonderful sight. I wasn't able to catch them on camera but a flock of seagulls saw us off.

We had a good sail and arrived in Marina di Ragusa at 22:30hrs. As it was dark we moored on the fuel quay for the night, assisted by very helpful security guards, and then moved to our winter berth on C22 the next morning.

A grand total of 1,482NM this year!

Trapani to Mazara del Vallo

After our long trip across to Sicily we moored on the Lega Navale pontoon in Trapani and stayed there for a couple of days.

 Looking across the shallows by the port with the Egadi islands in the background.

Strange tree trunks in the centre of Trapani.

Walking along the "avenue" from the fish market at the port into the centre of town.

The Sicilians also had the idea of using pallets for seats etc. We saw several variations on this theme around the town.

 Detail of the stonework on one of the many churches in town.

We took the cable car up from the outskirts of Trapani to the hilltop town of Erice. 

(Rather a blurry picture as it had to be taken through the window of the cable car)

The main gateway into the old medieval town of Erice about 800m above sea level. There are now only about 300 people who live here but it is a popular spot for tourists.

A lot of the historical town centre is largely intact, clean and well kept - not always the case in Sicily! The streets are all paved with this characteristic pattern of different sized, shiny stones.

A shop display of the typical, brightly coloured Sicilian pottery.

Local weaving - a long-established textile tradition.

In ancient times they did not throw anything away and even small pieces of cloth or old rags were reused by weaving them into carpets.The art and designs of rhombuses, lozenges and multi-coloured zigzags have been handed down through the ages.

Skipper enjoying morning coffee in a glass labelled "Skipper".

Erice is famous for its almond biscuits and pastries which are stacked up in the shop windows so, of course, we had to have a taster plate - yummy!

Incredible views from the Castello di Venere (Castle of Venus).

Even though it was quite hazy we were lucky to get as good a view as we did. The town is often lost in swirls of cloud and mist and so there often isn't much of a view at all. Locally these clouds are known as the "Kisses of Venus".

Torretta Pepoli, part of the main Castle of Venus.

Another view from the castle looking down to the huge area of salt pans outside Trapani.

Seen around the old town of Erice. 

One of the scenes in the museum of "Erice in Miniature"

Evening light  - the view from the bow of Serenity looking up to Erice - the line of lights is the route of the cable car.

After our two day stopover in Trapani we continued another 30 miles along the west/south coast to Mazara del Vallo

On the way we past the built up town of Marsala - well known for its dessert wine.

In Mazara del Vallo we moored on the Lega Navale pontoon and the following day went to explore the town.This is the old church that has lost its roof in strong winds.

The old cathedral in the main town square. On the Sunday it was closed for a service and when we returned on the Monday it was then closed for maintenance so we never did get to see inside. A beautiful, elegant building from the outside though.

Sunday evening was the last night of the Blue Sea Land Festival in the town. This was a celebration of the cultures of Sicily, the Mediterranean and Africa with many stalls selling traditional foods and some handicrafts. There had been a conference of ambassadors and in the evening they processed through the town in all their finery. We later saw them again dancing in a courtyard There were several music groups around town and the evening ended with an 80s band playing in the park.

A poor photo as it is a screen shot from a video on the phone but wanted to capture the Italian group performing Queen - very good!

The sad state of our Cruising Association flag after this year's travels! 

I did actually repair it with a piece of sailcloth but that was obviously too strong for it and the two bits parted company at some point!

Olbia to Arbatax, Sardinia

After Katy and Irvin left we had a day to restock and wait for the winds to change.

Still on the quay in Olbia, Dave was playing guitar when these two came along to listen. (I really should put a hat out when we are in port!) They were from Siberia and he asked if he could borrow Dave's guitar to serenade his girlfriend!

Leaving Olbia along the channel out of the commercial port, we saw hundreds of buoys for the mussel farms.

Looking back to Olbia port and the huge cruise ships and ferries.

The lighthouse at the entrance to Olbia channel. In the distance to the left of this picture is the bay of Liscia de Saline where we had watched the windsurfers.

Having left Olbia we headed down to the beach off San Teodora in the hope of seeing flamingoes. However.......no flamingoes and no safe, sheltered spot to anchor with fairly strong winds and a lot of swell so we went back to Cala Coda Cavello.

Here we found a lovely bay sheltered by land and islands almost all around us. 

A much calmer day the next day so we took the dinghy ashore and had morning coffee at the beach shack before walking uphill to the holiday village.

Views across the bay and the amazing colour of the water.

Love Dave"s idea of "a well trodden path" as we thought we could take a short cut which actually came out lower down than where we started. We decided to stick to the road after this!

Just incredible colours!

Serenity is the boat furthest away.

The view back down from the holiday village at the top of the hill where we enjoyed  chicken, pear and walnut salad (good combination!) and a glass of wine.

We left Cala Coda Cavello at 7:00am and motor-sailed for 11 hours to Arbatax. Here we anchored in the bay outside the marina and port just before the weather closed in.

Just about a double rainbow reflected in the sea. 

Skipper enjoying a well earned gin and tonic!

The town of Arbatax from the bay outside.

Evening calm.

From the town looking through the entrance to the harbour to the bay where we were anchored.

Wonderful rock sculptures of red granite.

What to do with the children's bikes when they grow out of them?

 Paint them pink and grow flowers in them!!

We took the dinghy ashore and went off to explore the reserve behind the beach. Here you can see more mussel beds like we saw in Olbia.

A delightful spot where we saw egrets, a kingfisher and cormorants but still no flamingoes!

Spiky pawpaw fruit on the cactus.

These are not mussel beds but what on earth are they for? Large floats fastened together and secured at each end. Any ideas?

Well, they found a good use for them anyway!

Back to the deserted beach.

We left Arbatax and motor sailed south heading for a bay / marina depending on weather. However, at 2:30pm we decided the wind was good for sailing across to Sicily so we changed course and prepared for a long trip. 

That evening we looked back and said goodbye to Sardinia.

We sailed the whole way across - 180 NM in 34 hours - a good wind but rough seas so a very rolly crossing.